From pattern to dress

This post is about creating a dress design from concept to sample.  I'm sure there are many ways of doing it, but this is the way I put down my ideas and create. Please also note, while the pattern and initial sample is my own, I utilise a small team to assist me in perfecting my ideas.

The concepts starts from an idea which I put down on paper with design line details and notes about the design. You'll notice on the sketch I have drawn a broken line down the middle of the dress to help me out with proportion. The sketch also included pockets, however the final sample did not have them.

Dress sample 1.

The above photo is the first sample. You'll notice there are no sleeves. I add these later as I like to get the design lines correct first before I begin sleeves. I used scrap fabric which is a bit naughty as apparently its best to use fabric the final design will be made from. The reason behind this is because fabric will fall differently depending on what it is. For example, if jersey was used the pleats would appear much neater than what the look in the photo above and there would not be as much flare.

When the sample is placed on the mannequin it is time to critique. If you look close, you notice the pleats were not straight enough in this sample, the neckline was too high plus the darts needed to be changed. I was happy with the length and armhole.

Dress sample two with sleeve.

In the photo above, the sample has improved. The darts were moved into the first pleat and effort has been made to sew them all straight. (it took ages and a lot of fabric marker!) However the neckline still  needs work.

Close up of dress sample two.

Final dress sample picture one.

Final dress sample picture two.

Here is the final sample, which has been made from linen and would be the fabric of choice for production. It now has sleeves, bias tape on the neckline and the hem has been sewn. The dress is very flattening. If I had someone who could model it for me I would, but for now you'll have to use your imagination.

I don't know how long the whole process has taken me, but I would say at least 20 hours of work  has gone into this dress sample. After making this dress sample I have decided it will not go into production. 

I hope this has been a good insight into my design process.

Blouse with pussy bow - sample

Blouse sample

Here is another sample I'm working on. The original blouse belongs to a silk linen three piece suit from the 60's, which still has the original tags on it. (See below)

Original blouse from the 60's

The blouse is fitted & has a zipper down at the back. The bust & waist darts make the piece very flattering on the figure as you can see from the first photo.

When I was making this sample, I made the mistake of using a jacket zipper, but that was all I could find at the time, plus I thought, 'It's a sample, so it doesn't matter.' WRONG!!

Additionally, I did a lap zip finish which has (I wanted to see how it would look) resulted in the back appearing unbalanced.

In the next draft for this blouse, I will be dropping the armholes 1-2cm, create facings and use an invisible zipper instead. I'm not really looking forward to inserting an invisible zipper. If you have ever used this type of zip, you know how time consuming they can be! Grrr! 

I shall be repeating the mantra 'Practice makes perfect' whilst putting in the zipper and crying at the same time!