The Process of pattern making....well mine anyway :-)

The process of pattern making is a probably a little different from person to person, but I wanted to share mine anyway.

Inspiration is usually found from a vintage dress that I have in the store and is one that customers have also been fond of, but for some reason has not been purchased (a lot of vintage from the 50's are tiny).

I then take a look at the shape and style lines and decide what should be changed and what is too hard to make. If a frock has buttons, then I'll change it to a zip as it's too time consuming & expensive to make, if the sleeves are too long then I'll make them shorter or not put them on at all.

After that step, I get my blocks, trace them off and move the darts if necessary. Style lines are added, then the pieces are traced off and seam allowances are made in order to sew the sample together.

Calcio is used for the first sample as I often have to draw on the sample later when I'm making adjustments. After the sample is completed, which is usually sew up in the shop, it's taken to my pattern making class for three reasons. 1) I don't have a dress mannequin, 2) the sample needs to be checked on the mannequin and changes made 3) I like my pattern making teacher to check as well.

When the adjustments have been noted, changes are made on the development drawing, a new pattern is made and sample too. Once again the sample is placed on a mannequin & sometimes on a customer in the shop to check the 
garment :-). If necessary, more changes are made. If not, then the pattern is ready for grading.

The final step is sourcing fabric, working out a sale price then actually making the garments.

Sound easy? It's not! This process can take me months and not because I'm slow at making them, but pattern making is done in between serving customers, repairing and buying stock, preparing stock for sale, social networking and eating peanut butter & choc chip cookies from Clement. I could pay someone to make the patterns and samples for me, but making the patterns myself is economical and the hands on design process is something that I love.

Author: Jason Cormick