From pattern to dress

This post is about creating a dress design from concept to sample.  I'm sure there are many ways of doing it, but this is the way I put down my ideas and create. Please also note, while the pattern and initial sample is my own, I utilise a small team to assist me in perfecting my ideas.

The concepts starts from an idea which I put down on paper with design line details and notes about the design. You'll notice on the sketch I have drawn a broken line down the middle of the dress to help me out with proportion. The sketch also included pockets, however the final sample did not have them.

Dress sample 1.

The above photo is the first sample. You'll notice there are no sleeves. I add these later as I like to get the design lines correct first before I begin sleeves. I used scrap fabric which is a bit naughty as apparently its best to use fabric the final design will be made from. The reason behind this is because fabric will fall differently depending on what it is. For example, if jersey was used the pleats would appear much neater than what the look in the photo above and there would not be as much flare.

When the sample is placed on the mannequin it is time to critique. If you look close, you notice the pleats were not straight enough in this sample, the neckline was too high plus the darts needed to be changed. I was happy with the length and armhole.

Dress sample two with sleeve.

In the photo above, the sample has improved. The darts were moved into the first pleat and effort has been made to sew them all straight. (it took ages and a lot of fabric marker!) However the neckline still  needs work.

Close up of dress sample two.

Final dress sample picture one.

Final dress sample picture two.

Here is the final sample, which has been made from linen and would be the fabric of choice for production. It now has sleeves, bias tape on the neckline and the hem has been sewn. The dress is very flattening. If I had someone who could model it for me I would, but for now you'll have to use your imagination.

I don't know how long the whole process has taken me, but I would say at least 20 hours of work  has gone into this dress sample. After making this dress sample I have decided it will not go into production. 

I hope this has been a good insight into my design process.

Off the Beaten Rack - Josh

'Off The Beaten Rack' is a new BSV feature. We are your eyes and ears into the wardrobes of creatives. Where being a pervert is encouraged, as is staying in the closet. 

This post is all about Josh, who has the most spectacular collection of jackets we've ever seen in a man wardrobe.

Your vest is all blinged out. Did you add those details yourself?

Haha, I guess it is a little blinged out and yeah, I added them all myself. I went to a steam punk wedding a couple of years ago and it sparked an interest in accessories that won't stop.

We love a man in jewels, and we've noticed you wear a lot of necklaces and badges. Are these items part of your uniform? Where does the obsession stem from? 

In the early 90's, I was always wearing lots of chains, badges and rings, but for some reason I later shied away from them. In recent years though, I find myself again never leaving the house without a necklace (or two or three) and some sort of badge or bracelet. My particular favourites have natural materials like feathers, wood or crystals.

These boots have lived an interesting past life. Tell us about it.

I walked out of my friends store on Andersen St in Yarraville one Sunday and SHAZZAM looked down into the doorway of a closed opshop. They looked almost new. I snaffled them up and tried them on at home, only to find that just like Cinderella's they fit perfectly. I love these boots as they can be dressed up or down with ease. 

Tell us also about the US jacket? Sourced in Australia? Have you ever cleaned it?

I tell people that this jacket belonged to my New York Jewish grandmother in the early 80's... In truth I found this gem at Shag. It's warm, comfy and very me!

We know people hate sharing shopping secrets these days, but drop us a bone (two places that you regularly haunt.)

Truthfully, I am more than happy to share my secrets and so instead of two I'll share a few. Firstly, I have a soft spot for SO:ME space at South Melbourne Market, as there is something for everyone there - love love love Lo & Behold, Bleecker Street and Creatures Of Comfort [Ed: Bleecker St offered no bribes]. 

Secondly, you can't go past Savers (Footscray is my local). I always look in all the sections, including those that aren't my size, as sizes have changed over time. I always look in the women's section too as not only do women's clothes rule, but sometimes they put men's clothes in the women's section! 

Thirdly, stop and look in opshops in the outer suburbs and small country towns. There's undoubtedly a piece of vintage gold hiding there. 

Lastly, sign up to mailing lists of your favourite stores, labels and fashion websites - that way you will know when the sales are on.

Thanks Josh!

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Off The Beaten Rack - Alice

'Off The Beaten Rack' is a new BSV feature. We are your eyes and ears into the wardrobes of creatives.

This week - Alice!

Alice is part-time cafe barista & part-time artist/crafty person! With Alice's work covering most of the house in many different forms, I'm sure Alice is going to have a shop one day.

Talk to us about your go-to garment. The one you flame to in a store, knowing you own more than you could ever possibly need. Mine is sweaters. I could patchwork my sweaters and blanket Melbourne. 

Flared or wide leg pants. I have a range of colours prints and textures even velvet! They are so flattering and fun to wear I'm on the hunt for some tasseled ones at the moment! 

TELL US ABOUT THE SHOOOOOES. What made you choose each piece?

I have way too many shoes. I love boots, I'm normally wearing boots all year round! I only own about two pairs of sandals. I choose shoes/ boots that are edgy, so I have a lot of black. Boots with tassels, studs, buckles, chunky heels or wedges.

Your style in seven words?

Colourful and feminine with western and bohemian influences. I'm obsessed with lace, tassels and fur. 

 

You have a knack for headwear. Is this a self-taught art?

I guess so. After I cut all my hair off (and had a small meltdown before getting used to it), I felt like finding accessories to make myself feel more feminine. So I started wearing scarves as headbands and then I bought my first headband with flowers and have been on the hunt for all kinds ever since.  Often I have to make them because they are hard to find the way I want them.

Finally, that tiger is the MONEY. Does he have a name? Where can we get one? 

I love him I call him Terry. I found him at the Chapel Street Bazaar, and he's a one off I'm afraid (we think he's from the 20's). I also have Frank the fox stole (pictured above).

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Shop Love: Kreel Design at South Melbourne Market

Porcelain & leather planter

Recently opened as a permanent store at South Melbourne market is Kreel Design!
Dawn, who is the owner of Kreel Design grew up surrounded by talented artists and traditional craft. As a result, this influenced Dawn to source products with a focus on craftsmanship.

Cushions by Squeak

In the next few weeks Kreel will be stocking some exciting new products in time for Christmas, however some are already available like these colourful cushions by Squeak.

Hand woven tribal basket

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Cafe Love: Grace

Have you ever had one of those days when you were suppose to be doing something totally work related then got distracted? Well, I had one of those last Thursday! 

I was walking down Rose Street, in Fitzroy on a complete mission to take photos of people for  a 'your style street style' blog post, but  it was TOTAL FAIL and the weather was not to blame, it was the cutest cafe on Rose Street by the name of Grace

I think the number one reason why I walked into Grace was because it reminded me of the cute cafes I would sometimes stumble across during my time in Japan. These Japanese cafes were usually down some little lane way or hidden in old buildings that involved taking a ride in a VERY OLD lift. I think this is something that is going to happen more & more in Melbourne as rents on streets with high foot traffic increase.

Grace is a place for delicious food, having a quiet chat with a friend and for getting away from all the noisy cafes on Brunswick Street that EVERYBODY goes to. Be sure to check out their courtyard too with the shipping container! Oh, and it's on the way to the Rose Street Market.

Cakes: My weakness.

Details:
Grace
76 Rose Street, Fitzroy

Mon - Fri: 7:00 am - 4:00 pm

Sat - Sun: 8:00 am - 4:00 pm

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Melbourne ceramic artisan: Sophie

Today on the Bleecker Street Vintage blog I'd like to introduce ceramic artisan Sophie, who creates functional pieces inspired from Japanese & Danish design. I was very excited when I met Sophie at the recent Finders Keepers Market in Melbourne as I have a love for Japanese ceramics, after studying it part-time myself whilst living in Japan.


 We had a great discussion (whilst drinking tea from one of Sophie's handmade teapots) about Japan, ceramics, clay types and the importance continual study of any art form. One thing really liked talking about was the slow movement in Japan & how the Japanese pottery town of Mashiko follows that philosophy.

Sophie took some time out from her busy schedule to allow me to visit & answered a few questions for me.

Tell us your story. How did you end up owning your own business making ceramics?

I did ceramics at art school (VCA) 20 years ago and then over the years have done various short courses.  When I left art school it's not like I went straight into working as a potter.  The reality is there aren't many pottery's out there anymore and I was a little to pragmatic.  I got a real job!

Then 8 years ago I set up the beginnings of a pottery studio in the laundry and it's just sort of grown from there. In the last couple of years it's become a full time thing.  It's been a very natural evolution.  It's something I love doing so I haven't approached it in a particularly hard nosed business way.  

How would you describe your style and who has influenced it?

I'm really into simplicity.  I'm not a big decorator, pots feel more honest when they're not all dressed up. And I'm obsessed with form, that's really what it's all about for me, making pots that you want to hold and feel. I love it when I'm at a market and someone will make a bee-line for my stall and start picking everything up, that makes my day.

There are loads of other potters that are an influence.  My mentor Gary Healey has been a huge influence and inspiration.  I love the work of Phil Elson and Prue Venables, they both do absolutely amazing things with clay. 

Could you let us know about your design process? 

I'll usually spend a few days thinking about a new shape and how I want it to look and be finished and then the rest of the process happens at the wheel.  It's more direct to just make it at the wheel and see if it works.  Tonight for example I was trying out some new ideas for cups and made about 15 cups and then recycled them all once I figured out what I was trying to do.  So the process is very active, there's not a lot of naval gazing.

Teapots waiting to be fired

Sugar bowsl: On my want list!

From start to finish how long does it take to make a collection?

I'm always making new designs and trying out new ideas so I don't really have a collection or range as such.  Usually I'll make maybe 30 of an idea and then move on.  But the process probably takes around 2 weeks.  It gets thrown, turned, handle attached then it has to dry for a few days, get bisque fired and then glazed and fired again.  It's a bit of a drawn out process and the throwing part is only one small aspect.

And finally what are your plans for the future? 

To make better pots.  And in the next year or two I'd like to have a show of my work.

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Industry Talk with Anthony - Et Al

Founded in 1987 by Christine and Les Doughty, Et Al has since cultivated a reputation for their unique signature aesthetic of relaxed tailoring worked back with the fluidity of soft drapery. Et Al manages to find the balance of cutting-edge designs with extremely wearable garments with a focus on refined workmanship and quality fabrication.

In 2008, Et Al introduced designer Anthony Capon to the label. Capon was the winner of television phenomenon Project Runway Australia Season 2 and the prestigious Emirates Melbourne Cup Design Award in 2010. His innovative androgynous designs and bespoke creations have built a cult following by enthusiasts globally.

The success of Doughty and Capon's collaboration is evident as Et Al continues to push their creativity by producing statement pieces with construction challenges, subtle yet well-considered detailing and garment wash treatments.

With an androgynous touch to their designs and following from the success of the womenswear collections, it was a natural progression for Et Al to launch its menswear range due to demand from male clients.

In 2013, Et Al showcased internationally for the first time as a part of Fashion Palette New York. Seven Australian designers including Akira, Aurelio Costarella and Nicola Finetti showcased their spring/summer 2013 collections at Pier 59.

Currently with five concept retail stores in key shopping precincts in Australia as well as an online store, Et Al is fast gaining recognition as a serious fashion brand; Colin Mathura-Jeffree from New Zealand's Next Top Model has worn several Et Al garments on-screen, and gowns were featured on the 2013 cycle of the Australian version.

 

Co-designer Anthony Capon took some time out to answer some industry questions.

Can you pinpoint the moment you knew fashion was the direction for you?

Since I was young I have always been quite creative. I always thought I'd be a Graphic Designer. I deferred my course for a year and the idea of Fashion intrigued me. I completed my Fashion Design degree in 2005 and have worked in the Industry ever since.

What would you name as your proudest professional moment to date? How has this moment advanced your career?

We (as in Et Al)  recently just showcased for the first time Internationally in New York which was very exciting. It was great to see our collection showcased on an international stage and there are lots of things coming from that to be announced soon. But we are also very proud of having our five stores in Melbourne. We have fantastic clients who love what we do and we are lucky to have such loyalty.

How do you think the internet and/or technology has changed the landscape of fashion, and the way we buy and consume?

We have an online store which is convenient for a lot of our clients. But for our business, many of our clients still love coming into store to try things on, to feel the fabrics and to get great customer service.

What are the top garments you gravitate to, when in a hurry, or dressing for a stock-standard work day? 

I always go for an oversized black blazer. It is comfortable, goes with everything, is trans-seasonal and always looks smart even if you aren't feeling inspired or creative. The other thing is great shoes! Shoes always complete an outfit.

Let us in on a secret - any secret. 

It’s OK to go up a size!!! Most people squeeze themselves to get into garments which don’t fit them. Garments that fit are always far more flattering, even if the number on the tag is bigger than usual.

Et Al has also expanded their clothing line by producing Limited Edition accessories, footwear and a sleepwear range.

Et Al

Anthony's blog

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Your Style = Street Style: Chapel Street South Yarra

  Emma: Producer

Wearing: Vintage dress purchased on Smith Street, housemate's trench, brother's hat, space monkey badge & $$$$ boots 

Matthew: Performer

Riki (right): Singer
Alex (left): Music producer


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Shop Love: Feathered Arbour

Living in Brunswick makes my little family of three spoilt for choice when it comes to cafes.
Depot de Pain located on Rathdowne Street, Carlton North is one of those places, and is my current favourite. Their open toast with mushrooms is something I just can't go past ordering and their brownie goes down well too!  

Further down from Depot de Pain & on the opposite side, is a homewares store by the name of Feathered Arbour. It's playful window displays have always drawn me in to take a look, but I have never gone inside, as up till now, I have only been past there when it's been closed.

I had a window of opportunity this week when having lunch at Depot de Pain (don't tell my partner) to take a sneaky look & quick chat to Julie, one of the store owners before heading back to do work at home.  A few days later I went back again to take photos of the store to share with my readers & customers.

Colourful placemats. Perfect to add colour at Christmas parties.

Imagine using these on a picnic or for a children's party.

Feathered Arbour is one of those stores where you can spend hours browsing and come out with a few nice pieces for the home or for a gift. 


They also have a great range of tribal bags in great colours. Plus tempting scented candles.

Towards the back of the store is a little nook, filled with toys & bedding for children. I thought the 'make your own volcano kit' would make a good present for my son at Christmas. I just need to figure out a place to hide it before then.


Thank you Julie & Sophie for allowing me to take some photos of your store. 






















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